Thursday, 18 June 2009
Last Post from China
Right now I'm doing the same, taking a quick break from the chaos before spending the next few hours finishing packing and cleaning up the evidence of my ten month stay in China. I am amazed at much junk I've accumulated, despite trying not to!
Tomorrow morning I will be heading to Beijing, where I'm going to spend Friday and Saturday exploring some parts of the city I still haven't seen, including, *ahem* Tiananmen Square. Then, if all goes well, I will fly home on Sunday. Expect a jet lagged post on Monday or Tuesday!
Wednesday, 17 June 2009
Why I will never be visiting a Chinese bank again...
There are many reasons why I will be glad to get back to the UK, and the incredibly stressful experience I had at the bank this afternoon illustrates one of them.
I had wanted to transfer my Chinese money to my British bank account. This morning I went to the bank with my American friend and was told I had to go to another branch to transfer money to the UK, so I waited for less than half an hour whilst my friend changed her money and closed her Chinese bank account.
I had been told to go to the other bank branch at two. I arrived at ten past, only to find that the section I needed wouldn't open until half past. Problems mounted up: I had too much money to transfer, I couldn't exchange or transfer any of my money into sterling unless I had a certificate, but the bank clerk, who I will call Ms Ignorer, wouldn't tell me what certificate I needed, and kept asking me why I hadn't brought a Chinese friend with me so she could explain to them. Er, lady, because the reason you have a well paid job is to help international customers?
This went on for almost an hour: I kept trying to ask what certificate I needed, but she would cut me off halfway through the question and tell me 'It's not my fault, I don't make the rules.' Very true, but actually bothering to explain the rules to me would've saved us both a lot of time.
All the staff seemed very confused about bank transfers to the UK, so I said I would just exchange my money, as I had a feeling that my hard earned cash would've ended up brightening someone else's day.
In the end I had to half shout repeatedly, 'Listen to me! Let me speak! What does the certificate need to say? Do I need it from the bank, from my employer?' which made me feel like the stereotypical obnoxious Westerner but I think if I hadn't I'd still be there now. It turns out that to change Chinese RMB into sterling I would've needed a certificate from my employer to say that the money I had was my saved wages and not money that I'd earnt by being, say, a gun running, drug dealing whore. Oh, and in any case I could only exchange or transfer $500 worth of sterling at a time.
Then she grabbed an unfortunate and kind Chinese man who had come up to the desk to transfer funds himself. She told me (after I'd been there for an hour and a half) that a Chinese person could transfer or exchange as much RMB into sterling as they pleased and needed no certificate. They guy agreed to help, and repeatedly I told Ms Ignorer that I wanted to exchange my money, not transfer it.
I sat and waited for ten minutes or more, and only when they brought the transfer form up to me to fill in my bank number did I realise that, yet again, she hadn't listened to a word I said. And she kept ignoring me as I tried to tell that I wanted to exchange my money not transfer it, until I grabbed the form, turned it over and said as loudly as I could without shouting 'I don't want this! I don't want this!' in Chinese, and refused to let her turn it back over.
My Chinese saviour then exchanged my money, which took all of five minutes. After I'd thanked him profusely, I asked Ms Ignorer which section I needed to go to to close my bank account. Again, I'd told her that I needed to do this repeatedly, but had she paid any attention? Of course not, she looked totally surprised and asked me why I wanted to do that. Well, probably because I'm leaving the country for good this week, which is, strangely enough, what I'd told her when she asked me why I wanted to change so much money.
Thankfully, closing my bank account was as painless as the currency exchange mainly because Ms Ignorer had nothing to do with it. If she had bothered to explain the rules to me, instead of taking the unfortunately prevalent Chinese attitude of 'I understand this, so obviously everyone else does too and therefore I will not even listen to what the other person is saying', it would've taken half an hour rather than two hours.
Given the attitude of Ms Ignorer, from opening late to acting outraged that she had to do her job of speaking English to an international customer, I strongly suspect that she is an example of the rampant nepotism that causes so much resentment here. And I should add that she spoke perfect, fluent English so she didn't even have the excuse of not understanding me.
Tuesday, 16 June 2009
Ferris Wheel
Since my first week in Shijiazhuang I have meant to ride the ferris wheel at my local park, and since we have started to be treated to clear skies I've redoubled the intention. But, you know, riding a ferris wheel a five minute walk from you….there's always something more 'important' and pressing to do, or the weather isn't right. So on a blue skied day last week I realised that if I didn't ride it then, I probably never would.
It was only as my carriage started its ascent that I remembered that I'm scared of heights. There ensued an odd moment where I started to panic that, alone on the ferris wheel, I'd panic about being so high up. Then I told myself to get a grip on myself, and whipped my camera out to distract myself by taking photos.
Oddly, having a camera in hand completely negates my fear, and I can become quite intrepid. Occasionally, such as the time in Italy that I nearly walked off the top of an amphitheatre, I am reminded of why feeling a bit wobbly when looking down from a great height was probably an evolutionary advantage.
The view from the top was definitely worth it: from one side you can see across the park and even glimpse the mountains outside the city, and the other side there was that quintessential sight in modern China, the building site, and the high rises of downtown.
Monday, 15 June 2009
Friday, 12 June 2009
Big Beard Barbeque
Last week I tried out 'Big Beard' barbeque with some of my friends: 'Big Beard', unsurprisingly, the man in the first photo, and really only needs a parrot to complete the look. We also had whole quails, which kept us all quiet for a few minutes as we manipulated the carcasses to get at the meat, getting very greasy fingers in the process. It was a wonderful, friendly evening, even if I didn't feel quite so chipper in the morning!
Thursday, 11 June 2009
Last Days in the Shiz
I am now into my last days in China: next Sunday will (providing the gods are willing) see my flying back to the chaos of Heathrow. As I am going to Beijing this weekend and the next, that is only 6 more days in Shijiazhuang, and so everything has taken on that heightened awareness that comes when you are aware that a clearly defined period of your life is ending.
A note in answer to a question from my last post: I have been reasonably adventurous in my eating habits, having happily chowed down on sparrow and donkey, but I found I drew the line at sea cucumber and duck heads. I couldn't bring myself to eat dog either, although it is an uncommon foodstuff here in northern China and most of my students were horrified when I told them that a widely held stereotype about Chinese people in the West is that they all eat dog.
Wednesday, 10 June 2009
Qingdao: Market
With the close packed stalls squeezed between old fashioned two storey buildings on cobbled streets, it was one of those places that seems as if it was designed to be a movie backdrop.